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Commonly Missed Items on Total Loss and Large Insurance Claims

A comprehensive checklist of items that adjusters and estimators routinely overlook on total loss and large property insurance claims. From low-voltage wiring and light bulbs to scribe moldings and pressure-treated sole plates — if it's not in the estimate, you're not getting paid for it.

When you have a total loss or a large property claim, the insurance company's estimate is generated in Xactimate — the industry-standard software for property insurance claims. That estimate must include every individual item needed to rebuild or restore your property. Every stud, every outlet, every light bulb, every piece of trim. If it is not in the estimate, you are not getting paid for it.

The problem: Xactimate estimates on total loss claims routinely miss dozens — sometimes hundreds — of legitimate line items. Some are small. Some are not. But they add up. A missing scribe molding here, a missing countertop edge treatment there, missing low-voltage wiring, missing thresholds, missing light bulbs — individually these may be $20 to $200 items, but across an entire house they can total thousands or tens of thousands of dollars.

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How to Use This List

Homeowners:You don't need to be an Xactimate expert to use this list. Walk through your property and compare what you see to what's in the insurer's estimate. If your house had a doorbell, the estimate needs doorbell wiring. If your house had house numbers on the front, the estimate needs detach and reset of house numbers. These are not subjective judgment calls — they are real items that cost real money to replace. Even identifying a few missing items reshapes the conversation: the adjuster can no longer claim the estimate is “complete.”

Professionals: Use this as a scope audit checklist to cross-reference against carrier estimates and your own work. On a total loss, missing even 50 small line items at an average of $50 each is $2,500 before overhead and profit and tax.

Electrical

Electrical is one of the most under-scoped trades on total loss claims. The carrier's estimate may include “rewire house” as a single line item, but a proper estimate includes every component:

  • Wire drop from the utility pole to the house
  • Mast and weather head at the point of service entrance
  • Meter base/socket
  • Breaker panel (the box itself)
  • Individual breakers — each is a separate line item, and the number must match what was in the original panel (or what code requires if upgrading)
  • Grounding rod
  • Grounding rod clamp
  • Grounding cable from the panel to the grounding rod
  • Low-voltage wiring — thermostat wire, doorbell wire, Cat6/network cabling, speaker wire, security system wiring. These are entirely separate systems from the electrical wiring and are almost always missed
  • GFI outlets — required by code in kitchens, bathrooms, garages, and exterior locations. Each GFI outlet is a separate, more expensive line item than a standard outlet
  • Arc fault breakers — current code requires arc fault circuit interrupters (AFCIs) in bedrooms and most living areas. These breakers cost significantly more than standard breakers
  • Code requirement: dedicated circuits — current code requires separate dedicated circuits for the refrigerator and garbage disposal (they cannot share a circuit). This means separate wiring runs and separate breakers
  • Code requirement: island outlets — outlets on kitchen islands must be on a stepped-up level, not at the counter edge

Framing

Framing is complex and highly technical. Carrier estimates frequently use simplified framing line items that miss critical components:

  • Pressure-treated sole plate — the bottom plate of a wall that sits on concrete must be pressure-treated lumber. This is a separate, more expensive line item than standard framing lumber. It is missed on nearly every carrier estimate
  • Double top plate
  • King studs and jack studs at door and window openings — these are additional studs beyond the standard stud spacing
  • End stud— when a wall length does not divide evenly by 16” stud spacing, there is an additional stud at the end of the wall. It is there on the existing wall; it needs to be in the estimate
  • Seismic hold-down bolts — required in California seismic zones
  • Foam underlayment underneath the sole plate (sill seal gasket)
  • California corners and different corner framing configurations that require drywall clips for attachment
  • Simpson ties, straps, and nailing plates — metal connectors at structural intersections required by code
  • Rafters, purlins, ceiling joists, and outriggers
  • Bird's mouth cuts on rafters where they sit on the wall plate
  • Rafter tails
  • Wall height— older homes with plaster walls often have 8'3” walls, not 8'0”. That is roughly 3% more material and labor than what's estimated at standard height. Measure your actual wall height

Drywall and Plaster

  • Taping joints on drywall cuts — when drywall is cut for repairs, the cut edge must be taped and finished. This is a separate line item from drywall installation and is constantly overlooked
  • Three-coat plaster over wood lath — on older homes with original plaster walls, the correct line item is three-coat plaster over metal lath (the closest equivalent). Many adjusters incorrectly default to two-coat plaster over gypsum board, which is less expensive and not the same system
  • 5/8” drywall— some jurisdictions (including Los Angeles) require 5/8” drywall, not 1/2”. This is a code upgrade that should be in the estimate
  • Skim coat for Level 5 drywall finish — a smooth wall finish requires a skim coat over the entire surface, not just the taped joints
  • Scaffolding for overhead work — OSHA does not allow standing on a ladder to do overhead plastering, drywall finishing, or painting of ceilings. Scaffolding is a separate line item
  • Removal of damaged materials — tearing out old drywall or plaster is a separate operation from hauling it to the dumpster. Both must be in the estimate
  • Paper-faced insulation vs. unfaced — paper-faced costs more and is often what was actually in the wall. Check what you had
  • Priming the entire wall before texture — when shooting knockdown or other textures over a drywall repair, the texture that hits the mudded seam dries faster than texture that hits painted or bare paper surfaces. This difference telegraphs the seam through the finished texture. The correct practice is to prime the entire wall before texturing for a uniform appearance. This is a separate line item
  • Masking for texture — twice — the wall must be masked at the base and top before spraying texture. After texturing, the masking material becomes coated in overspray and is typically discarded. The wall is then masked a second time for painting. Two rounds of masking means double the material and labor

Kitchen

Kitchens are the single most under-scoped room in insurance estimates. The number of small items that get missed is staggering:

  • Countertop edge treatment — each edge profile is a separate line item from the countertop itself. A double bullnose is actually two edge treatment line items (top bullnose and bottom bullnose). A Roman OG — one of the higher-end profiles — is an ogee plus a double bullnose, meaning three separate edge treatment line items on a single countertop. Carriers almost never get this right
  • Edge treatment around the sink cutout — this is separate from the front edge treatment and is almost always missed
  • Backsplash square edge treatment — the finished edge where the backsplash ends. Constantly overlooked
  • Backsplash outlet cutouts — each hole cut in a granite backsplash for an electrical outlet is a separate line item
  • Countertop depth— cabinets are 24” deep, but the countertop itself is typically 25”, and with the extra piece for the edge treatment underlap it becomes 26–27”. That is roughly 12–16% more material than what adjusters estimate when they just measure cabinet depth
  • Granite slab rounding — granite is purchased in full slabs, not by the square foot. The estimate should round up to reflect actual slab usage
  • Undermount sink — an undermount installation is approximately $250 more than a drop-in. The line item exists in Xactimate but is frequently missed
  • Scribe moldings— the typically vertical moldings on upper and lower cabinets where they meet the wall. Every kitchen has them. They easily total $1,000+ across a full kitchen when you include O&P and sales tax. Almost never in carrier estimates
  • Cabinet side panels— the exposed side of an end cabinet must be finished. If you have a 10' run of cabinets with a 2' exposed side panel, that is 12' of cabinet exterior to paint, not 10'
  • Toe kicks — the recessed panel at the base of the cabinets. Often a separate line item, and some cabinets have a separate base molding as well
  • Lazy Susans and specialty cabinetry — corner lazy Susans, under-sink specialty cabinets, pull-out trash cabinets, and other specialty units cost more than standard cabinets and must be line-itemed separately
  • Light fixtures under upper cabinets— LED strips, fluorescent tubes, or puck lights mounted to the underside of upper cabinets. People don't look up under the cabinets
  • Drilling new holes for knobs/pulls— you cannot “reset” a knob into a new cabinet drawer face because the holes don't exist yet. Even if you are reusing the same hardware, new cabinets require drilling new holes using a jig. This is a completely different line item from detach/reset of existing knobs — and the D&R line item does not apply when the cabinets are new
  • Roughing in the dishwasher — plumbing and electrical connections for the dishwasher are a separate line item
  • Dishwasher insulation blanket — the sound-deadening blanket around the dishwasher. No specific Xactimate line item exists; it must be created as a special item. On a smoke loss, the existing blanket is contaminated and must be replaced
  • Air gap for dishwasher — required by code in many jurisdictions, mounted on the sink or countertop. A separate small item that is always missed
  • Ice maker line— the water supply line to the refrigerator's ice maker. A detach and reset line item exists but is routinely missed
  • Gas stove flex line — the flexible gas connector for the range. Flex line diameter depends on the number of burners (a 6-burner range needs a larger line). Per the manufacturer label and plumbing trade standards, these should be replaced, not reused. Should be done by a licensed plumber
  • Angle stops — the shut-off valves under the sink must be removed when replacing drywall near plumbing. The contractor needs to cap the nipple (stub-out), do the drywall work, then reinstall a new angle stop
  • Escutcheon plates — the cosmetic trim plates around the angle stops. Cannot be put back on if the angle stop was not properly removed first. A separate item from the angle stop itself
  • Supply hoses — the flexible supply lines under the sink connecting the angle stops to the faucet. These are typically replaced, not reused

Bathroom

  • Concrete shower curb — especially on older homes, the shower curb is poured concrete, not a wood frame. This is a different (more expensive) line item
  • Bullnose tile on all exposed tile edges — inside corners, outside corners, where tile meets drywall. Many adjusters only include field tile and forget that every exposed edge needs a finished bullnose piece
  • Diagonal tile on shower floors and walls — shower floors are often laid diagonally for drainage, and many showers feature diagonal tile on the walls as well. Diagonal installation requires additional labor (it is more time-consuming to set up the layout) and has a significantly higher waste factor than straight-lay tile. Both the extra labor and the extra waste must be in the estimate
  • Tile on mortar bed — many showers, especially older ones, have tile set on a mortar bed (also called a mud bed or float) rather than directly on cement board. This is more expensive than a standard thin-set installation and is a different line item
  • Chrome P-trap — a decorative exposed P-trap under a pedestal or wall-mount sink. There is no standard Xactimate line item for this; it must be created with pricing from a plumbing supply house
  • Mirror replacement — when a bathroom mirror is glued to the wall with mastic, it cannot be removed intact. It must be replaced
  • J-trim at mirror edges — the gold or silver anodized aluminum channel at the bottom edge of a wall-mounted mirror. Constantly overlooked
  • Steam generator and related components (controller, auto-flush valve) — if the bathroom had a steam shower, all components must be in the estimate
  • Toilet seat — on a fire or smoke loss, the toilet seat is contaminated and must be replaced. The toilet seat is not included in the toilet line item in Xactimate — it is a separate line item that is missed on virtually every fire estimate
  • Grout sealing — after tile is grouted, the grout must be sealed. This is a separate line item from the grouting itself and is routinely omitted
  • Epoxy grout — if the original tile had epoxy grout (common in showers and wet areas for its water resistance), the replacement must also be epoxy grout, which is significantly more expensive than standard cement grout. It is a different line item with a higher unit cost — do not let the adjuster default to standard grout pricing

Flooring

  • Extra coats of finish on hardwood floors — most hardwood floors have multiple coats of polyurethane. Each additional coat is a separate line item
  • Flooring both glued and nailed — some installations use both adhesive and fasteners. Both operations must be line-itemed
  • Moisture barrier for engineered wood or laminate on a concrete slab — often omitted from carrier estimates
  • Tack strip removal with carpet removal — a separate line item
  • Base shoe / quarter round at the floor-to-baseboard transition — the small molding at the very bottom. A separate item from the baseboard itself

Doors and Hardware

  • Thresholds— one of the most commonly overlooked items on any estimate. Every exterior door has one. Many interior transitions between flooring types have them. If you are replacing flooring, the threshold that overlaps it must be detached and reset. They are almost never in the carrier's estimate
  • Front door hardware — all of it— the door itself is usually included, but the latch set, deadbolt, peephole, mail slot, weather stripping, door sweep, and kick plate are each separate items. If the door is being painted or refinished, every one of these must be detached and reset. That is six or more separate D&R line items on a single door
  • Door hardware detach and reset — on any door that is being painted, refinished, or replaced, the hardware must be removed and reinstalled. This includes the lockset or passage set, hinges, and door stop. This is overlooked on virtually every estimate, on virtually every door
  • Sliding glass doors — the line item with possibly the most add-on line items in the entire software. To correctly estimate a sliding glass door, you may need separate add-on line items for: dual-pane glass, argon fill, tempered glass, tinted or Low-E glass, the screen door, anodized finish, and a retrofit installation (which also applies to replacement windows). Missing even half of these add-ons significantly understates the cost
  • Retrofit windows and doors — when a window or door is replaced into an existing opening (rather than new construction), there is an additional line item for retrofit installation. This is separate from the window/door itself and is commonly missed

Exterior / Siding

  • House numbers — if you are painting the exterior, re-stuccoing, or replacing siding, the house numbers must be detached and reset. A real item with a real line item
  • Detach and reset items mounted to exterior walls — electrical panel, light fixtures, hose bibs, exterior outlets, security cameras, address plaques. Anything mounted to a wall that is being repaired must come off and go back on
  • Trim around hose bib openings — the trim or escutcheon around where the hose bib penetrates the siding. Small, but it exists

Trim and Moldings

  • Built-up crown molding— in many homes, the crown molding is not a single piece. It is an assembly of 2–3 pieces: a 1x board, a small molding underneath, and the crown piece on top. A carrier that estimates one piece of crown is missing the other components
  • Two-piece door casings — older homes often have a flat casing with a backband molding applied on top. Two pieces, two line items
  • Base shoe / quarter round — the small molding at the floor line where the baseboard meets the floor. Separate from the baseboard
  • Scribe moldings — where cabinets, built-ins, or other millwork meets the wall or ceiling. Tiny pieces, real cost

Painting

  • Detach or mask light fixtures when painting ceilings — this is a separate operation from the painting itself and is missed on nearly every estimate
  • Priming before wallpaper — walls must be primed before wallpaper is applied so the paper can slide for positioning. A separate line item from the wallpaper installation
  • Wallpaper waste calculation— wallpaper is sold in double rolls (two rolls per package), so the estimate must always use even numbers. Wallpaper should be estimated by the roll based on wall height and pattern repeat — not by the square foot, which dramatically understates the actual quantity needed. A 10' wall with a 16.5' roll yields only one usable cut per roll. The waste factor is far higher than what most adjusters calculate
  • Grass cloth wallpaper — requires a bid item or extra labor because adhesive cannot touch the face of the material. Standard wallpaper labor rates do not apply
  • Chandelier cleaning — if the chandelier is staying (not being replaced), it must be cleaned before painting around it. Cleaning a crystal chandelier is meticulous, piece-by-piece work. It is a separate line item

Concrete and Foundation

  • Moisture barrier under the slab — required by code
  • Sand and gravel bed under the slab
  • Soil compaction before pouring
  • Rebar — amount, spacing, and size must match code requirements
  • Slab thickness — verify the estimate matches actual thickness, not a default

Roofing

  • Patio cover detach and reset — if a patio cover is attached to the house and the roof is being replaced, the patio cover must be detached and reattached. This is a significant item that is frequently missing
  • Drip edge — metal flashing at the eaves and rakes
  • Ice and water shield — required by code in valleys and at eaves in many jurisdictions
  • Pipe boot/jack replacement — these should be replaced with a new roof, not reused
  • Satellite dish or antenna detach and reset
  • Starter strip shingles — manufacturers require them for warranty compliance. Adjusters often try to bundle this into the waste factor, but it is a separate line item
  • Ridge cap / hip cap shingles — standard or high-profile, separate from field shingles
  • Step flashing at roof-to-wall transitions — labor-intensive and cannot be reused after tear-off
  • Chimney cricket— required by IRC code when the chimney is wider than 30”
  • Kick-out flashing — code-required at roof-to-wall transitions to direct water into the gutter
  • Synthetic underlayment — code upgrade from old felt in many jurisdictions
  • Ridge vent installation

Plumbing

  • Hose bibs (exterior faucets) — each one is a separate line item
  • Sewer cleanouts — access points in the sewer line, required by code
  • Water service line from the meter to the house
  • Sewer lateral from the house to the street connection
  • Gas piping throughout the structure — each run is a separate item
  • Gas appliance connectors — flexible gas lines for range, dryer, water heater, furnace. Each is separate. Gas stove flex line diameter depends on burner count
  • Water heater venting — the flue pipe from the water heater through the roof
  • Pressure testing of all plumbing systems after installation
  • Backflow preventer — required by code in many jurisdictions
  • Expansion tank on the water heater
  • Washing machine connections— hot, cold, and drain. Often assumed to be included in “plumbing” but must be line-itemed
  • Toilet supply lines and wax rings
  • Shower/tub valve trim — the visible hardware, separate from the rough-in valve
  • Plumbing trim-out labor — installing fixtures, faucets, and trim is a separate operation from rough-in plumbing. Both must be in the estimate
  • Garbage disposal installation

HVAC

  • Ductwork — in a fire loss, ductwork is often contaminated by smoke traveling through the HVAC system. Replacement or decontamination must be in the estimate
  • Thermostat and wiring — low-voltage wiring for the thermostat is separate from the HVAC unit itself
  • Refrigerant line sets — the copper lines between the condenser and evaporator coil
  • Condensate drain lines
  • HVAC disconnect — the electrical disconnect box at the exterior condenser
  • Concrete equipment pad for the exterior condenser unit
  • Flue/venting for furnace and water heater
  • Dryer vent duct and exterior cap
  • Bath exhaust fan ducting and exterior cap — each bathroom fan needs a duct run and a cap at the exterior wall or roof
  • Range hood exhaust duct and exterior cap
  • Return air grilles, supply registers, and diffusers — each is a separate line item
  • Duct insulation
  • HVAC system startup, testing, and commissioning — a separate line item from installation. Required to verify the system operates correctly

Interior Small Items

These are the items that individually seem insignificant but collectively add up to real money. Every single one is a legitimate line item in Xactimate:

  • Door stops — wall-mount and floor-mount. Every door has one
  • Door hinges
  • Closet rods and shelving — wire or wood, in every closet
  • Closet door hardware
  • Towel bars, toilet paper holders, grab bars
  • Outlet covers and switch plates — every outlet and switch in the house
  • Window hardware — locks, operators (on casement windows), lifts
  • Window screens
  • Caulking and sealant — tub/shower joints, window perimeters, countertop backsplash
  • Stair treads, risers, and nosing
  • Handrails and guardrails — code requires specific heights and spacing that may differ from the original
  • Attic access panel or pull-down stairs
  • Smoke detectors — hardwired, interconnected, with battery backup. Current code requires one in every bedroom plus hallways
  • Carbon monoxide detectors

Site Work and Utilities (Total Loss)

On a total loss rebuild, the site itself requires work that is almost never in the initial carrier estimate:

  • Contaminated soil remediation— the top 6” of topsoil around a fire loss is often contaminated with heavy metals and toxins. Testing and removal may be required
  • Post-remediation soil testing
  • Gas meter set and reconnection
  • Electric meter set and reconnection
  • Water meter / water service reconnection
  • Sewer tap reconnection
  • Utility impact fees
  • Site grading and compaction
  • Temporary power pole or generator rental during construction
  • Temporary fencing / security fencing
  • Landscape replacement — trees, shrubs, plants (typically subject to a 5% of dwelling limit cap, with $500 per tree/shrub sublimit)
  • Irrigation system
  • Mailbox and post
  • Fencing and gates
  • Concrete flatwork — sidewalks, driveway, patio slab
  • Retaining walls

Fire Loss Specific Items

  • Light bulbs— on a fire loss, every single light bulb in the house is gone. LED bulbs cost $5–15 each. A typical house has 40–80+ light fixtures. This is a real cost that is almost never in the estimate. Light bulbs, light bulbs, light bulbs
  • Smoke testing — testing for lead, asbestos, silica, lithium, PCBs, arsenic, and other contaminants in smoke residue. Required to determine proper cleaning and remediation protocols
  • Contaminated refrigerator decontamination — a refrigerator that lost power during a fire develops H2S gas from rotting food. Opening it requires an acid gas respirator. The contents require hazmat disposal. California Penal Code 402(b) requires removal of doors/latches from abandoned refrigerators
  • Front and back porch cleaning — porches get scuff marks from firefighter hose drag, soot tracking, and water damage. These areas should be drawn in the estimate to capture the cleaning scope
  • Hazardous materials testing and abatement — asbestos testing (air and bulk samples), lead paint testing (required for pre-1978 homes under the EPA RRP Rule), and abatement with proper disposal manifests
  • Ash and debris removal — structural demolition labor is separate from debris hauling, which is separate from dumpster rental. Each is its own line item
  • Soot treatment to framing — if any framing remains in place, it must be HEPA vacuumed, chemically cleaned, and sealed. Each operation is a separate line item
  • Garage door, springs, tracks, and hardware — the garage door is often included but the springs, tracks, brackets, and opener with remote are separate items

Firefighter Damage

Firefighters cause more damage than most people realize, and all of it is covered as part of the fire loss. Commonly overlooked firefighter damage includes:

  • Cutting of roof rafters — firefighters cut ventilation holes in the roof to release heat and smoke. This structural damage must be in the estimate
  • Damage to foundation vents — firefighters inspect foundation vents and crawlspace areas to verify the fire is completely out, often damaging the vent covers and screens in the process
  • Saw-cutting of gate locks and latches — firefighters cut locks and latches to gain access to the property. Gate hardware, padlocks, and latches must be replaced
  • Holes in otherwise unaffected areas — firefighters poke inspection holes in walls and ceilings in areas away from the main fire to verify it has not spread. These areas may appear undamaged from the outside but have holes that need repair
  • Cutting of the electrical service drop — firefighters may cut the electrical wire drop to the property for safety. Reconnection and replacement of the drop is a legitimate line item
  • Smoke detectors knocked off ceilings — it is standard fire department practice to knock smoke detectors off the ceiling during firefighting operations, necessitating their replacement. Do not assume missing smoke detectors were absent before the fire — the fire department removed them as a standard procedure, and they must be replaced (hardwired and interconnected per current code)
  • Hose drag damage — fire hoses dragged through the house damage flooring, baseboards, door frames, and walls along the path. Hoses dragged across porches, decks, and patios leave scuff marks and gouges
  • Water damage from firefighting — areas not touched by fire may have extensive water damage from the hoses. Flooring, drywall, insulation, and personal property in rooms below or adjacent to the fire area can be destroyed by water
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Review the Fire Department Report

The fire department's incident report often includes an after-action summary describing what the firefighters did on the property — where they cut, what they opened, how they gained access, and where they directed water. This report can confirm or reveal damage in areas you might not have considered. Request a copy of the full report from your local fire department.

Plants, Trees, and Shrubs

Plants, trees, and shrubs coverage is one of the most commonly overlooked coverage items on fire losses. It is a separate coverage (typically 5% of the dwelling limit, with a per-item sublimit of $500 per tree or shrub) and covers several categories of damage that people miss:

  • Direct fire and heat damage — trees and shrubs adjacent to the burn structure often suffer heat damage, scorching, or complete loss even if not directly in the fire path
  • Firefighting vehicle and equipment damage — fire trucks, ambulances, and other emergency vehicles routinely drive over lawns, crush landscaping, and damage plants during firefighting operations. This is covered damage
  • Lawn and plant death during reconstruction — when a home is being rebuilt after a total loss, the water is typically turned off for a year or more. Lawns, plants, shrubs, and trees that depended on irrigation die during this period. This is a consequential loss from the fire
  • Irrigation system damage — the sprinkler system itself may be damaged by the fire, firefighting operations, or construction equipment during the rebuild

General Conditions and Overhead

  • Progressive cleanup — daily job site cleanup during construction. Required by CSLB (Contractors State License Board) regulations. This is a separate line item from final cleanup
  • Final cleanup— a professional cleaning of the completed work. Typically $350–400+ for a full house
  • Permits — actual incurred permit costs are a reimbursable expense
  • Architectural/drafting fees — required for any total loss rebuild and many large repairs
  • Content protection and manipulation — moving, covering, and protecting personal property during interior repairs
  • Dumpster rental — plus pickup truck loads — the estimate may allow for one or more large dumpsters for heavy debris removal, but those dumpsters are often gone well before construction is finished. Dumpster companies or neighborhood associations may not allow dumpsters to remain more than a short period. The finished carpentry phase — weeks after the dumpsters leave — generates scrap baseboards, door casings, carpet remnants, empty paint cans, masking material, and other construction waste that still needs to go to the landfill. It is not unreasonable to estimate one or two pickup truck loads for construction waste hauling in addition to the dumpsters
  • Portable toilet — required on job sites where workers do not have access to facilities
  • Structural engineer fees — required on total loss rebuilds and many large structural repairs
  • Soils/geotechnical engineer report — often required before foundation work can begin
  • Special inspection fees — structural, welding, concrete inspections required by the building department
  • Scaffolding — required by OSHA for overhead work. A separate line item from the work itself
  • Course of construction insurance — required during rebuild. A legitimate soft cost
  • Material delivery charges
  • Supervision / project management — the supervision line item in Xactimate is broader than most people realize. It includes not just on-site supervision but also the time to order and coordinate building materials and the time to pull building permits. On a fire loss or total loss, the permitting and material procurement process is substantial and is a legitimate part of the supervision scope
  • Cleaning of areas outside the main construction zone — during construction, areas adjacent to the work get dirty. Drywall dust settles on front and back patios. The garage gets scuffed and dirtied from staging materials, storing kitchen cabinets, or stockpiling supplies. These areas may need additional cleaning, power washing, or even repainting. They are easy to overlook because they are outside the primary scope, but they are real consequential costs
  • Overhead and Profit— the general contractor's 10% overhead and 10% profit should be applied to the entire estimate when a GC is managing the project. Carriers routinely omit O&P or argue it doesn't apply. See our guide on overhead and profit

Code Upgrades (Law and Ordinance Coverage)

Code upgrade items are payable under your Law and Ordinance coverage — a separate coverage with its own limit. These items are commonly missed entirely because the adjuster doesn't consider what current code requires vs. what was originally built:

  • Fire sprinkler system — required for new construction or major renovations in many jurisdictions, even if the original home did not have one
  • GFI outlets and arc fault breakers — current electrical code requires these in locations where they were not previously required
  • Dedicated circuits — separate circuits for refrigerator, dishwasher, microwave, and other appliances that may have shared circuits in the original wiring
  • 5/8” drywall— required in some jurisdictions; original home may have had 1/2”
  • Insulation upgrades — current energy code may require higher R-values than what was originally installed
  • Plumbing upgrades — lead-free fittings, updated materials
  • Window upgrades — energy-efficient windows, tempered glass in locations now required by code
  • Roof sheathing thickness— older homes may have 3/8” plywood or skip-sheathing that does not meet current code. The building department may require upgrade to 15/32” or 1/2”. See our guide on multiple reasons to replace
  • Solar panels — some jurisdictions now require solar on new construction or major renovations. If required by code, this is a code upgrade cost
  • Low-VOC paint — California Green Building Standards require low-VOC coatings. This is a code upgrade if the original home used conventional paint
  • Hazardous materials testing and abatement — homes built before 1978 require lead paint testing under the EPA RRP Rule before any renovation work. Asbestos testing is required before disturbing suspect materials. These are legitimate code and regulatory requirements
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Code Upgrades Are a Separate Coverage

Code upgrade items should not come out of your dwelling coverage (Coverage A) limit. They are payable under Law and Ordinance coverage, which is a separate line on your declarations page with its own limit — typically 10% of dwelling coverage. If your adjuster is not writing code upgrade items, you are leaving that entire coverage untouched. On a $500,000 dwelling with 10% L&O, that is up to $50,000 in additional coverage that may be available to you.

Why These Items Get Missed

It is worth understanding why carrier estimates are routinely incomplete:

  • Time pressure. Carrier adjusters handle high volumes of claims. They do not have time to spend three days writing a meticulous Xactimate estimate for one property. Items get missed because the adjuster is moving fast.
  • Limited construction knowledge.Many adjusters — particularly desk adjusters and newer field adjusters — have limited hands-on construction experience. They don't know about pressure-treated sole plates or bird's mouth cuts or countertop edge treatments because they have never built anything.
  • Template-based estimating.Some adjusters use templates or macros that cover the major items but miss dozens of smaller ones. The template becomes the estimate, and anything not in the template doesn't get included.
  • Financial incentive.The carrier benefits from a lower estimate. There is no incentive for the carrier's adjuster to find items they missed. The incentive runs the other direction.

What to Do About It

  1. Get a copy of the carrier's Xactimate estimate. You are entitled to it. Request the full estimate — not just the summary page, but the complete line-by-line scope with quantities, unit prices, and line item descriptions.
  2. Walk through the estimate against this list. Compare what is in the estimate to what was actually in your house. Every missing item is money left on the table.
  3. Document what was there. Photos of your home before the loss are invaluable. They show the exact light fixtures, hardware, trim profiles, countertop edges, and small details that an adjuster would never know about.
  4. File a supplement.Missing items can be added to the claim as a supplemental estimate. You do not have to accept the carrier's estimate as final.
  5. Hire a professional. A licensed Public Adjuster or experienced contractor can write a competing Xactimate estimate that captures every item. On a total loss, the difference between the carrier's estimate and a properly scoped estimate can be tens of thousands of dollars.
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Even Small Items Reshape the Narrative

You may not be able to calculate the full dollar amount difference without Xactimate training. But you can identify specific, concrete items that are missing — house numbers, light bulbs, thresholds, doorbell wiring — and present them to the adjuster. The adjuster can no longer claim the estimate is “complete” when you have a list of real items that are not in it. That shifts the conversation from “take it or leave it” to “what else did you miss?”

Think Your Estimate Is Missing Items?

A Public Adjuster can review your carrier's Xactimate estimate line by line, identify every missing item, and file a supplement to get your claim to the correct amount.

Request a Free Claim Review →

Need Help With Your Claim?

If your insurer is giving you trouble, a licensed Public Adjuster can review your file and represent you in negotiations — at no upfront cost.

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